Welcome To Eleven Madison Park!
It’s one of New York’s most acclaimed restaurants, located on the edge of Madison Park, and in 2017, it was named the best restaurant in the world!
As Eater reported at the time:
Daniel Humm is the executive chef and co-owner of Eleven Madison. Humm and his partner, General Manager Will Guider have made Eleven Madison Park a “must try” destination for foodies, and now it has topped the chart as the world’s best!
So, how did this restaurant react to the acclaim? By going vegan!
In 2021 Humm explained his decision this way:
Humm went plant-based because of what he saw happening in the world of animal agriculture—disease, waste, and unsustainable environmental impacts. “It was definitely a response to the changing climate because the climate was changing the ingredients that we were working with,” he says.
So, how has it gone?
Well, the restaurant’s elaborate tasting menu continues without meat or fish – even butter is off the menu according to several reports – and a few weeks ago, the food website “The Infatuation” shared a review that led with this:
“Eleven Madison Park—in its revamped, plant-based form—achieves the impossible. After a meal at this cavernous Art Deco institution, you’ll know, from the bottom of your heart, that your food didn’t justify its $365 price tag.”
Ouch. I’m sharing this because my wife and I ate at the restaurant in 2017 – the year it was named the best in the world – before it went to a vegan menu.
Writer Bryan Kim posted his review and shared these photos as well…a candid, in-depth look at the food, the dining experience – and the price…here are two examples of the dishes he was served – and his review of each:
Tonburi With Badger Flame Beets And Finger Lime
No, that’s not caviar you see. Those are the dried and rehydrated seeds of the summer cypress. They aren’t nearly as flavorful as sturgeon roe, but they do provide an interesting firm, crunchy texture. Although the best things on this plate are the raw sliced badger flame beets, which look and taste like mildly sweet, unripe peaches.
Here’s another dish:
Celtuce Tostada With Avocado
Part of an “ode to celtuce,” this tostada is one of the better bites we’ve had here. It is, of course, kind of sad that you only get a half portion ($365 doesn’t buy much these days), but the masa underneath is crisp and crumbly, almost like shortbread.
This was sad to read, and speaks to the very high expectations that come with tasting menus at world-class restaurants that charge hundreds and hundreds of dollars. You can see the entire review here:
https://www.theinfatuation.com/new-york/reviews/eleven-madison-park
As I said, my wife and I had the chance to eat at Eleven Madison Park before it turned vegan, and I wanted to share the experience so you can see how a tasting menu played out at that time.
Most importantly, the entire team is absolutely outstanding, and you are treated so well from the moment you are seated – you do not receive a menu, since it is a “tasting menu” the Chef tweaked based on the seasons…however, you DO get a menu – here it is:
Enjoy Your Menu!
The restaurant has a unique way of sharing the menu: it is given to you after the meal in a cool round tin – with the menu printed on a circular paper inside like this!
After ordering drinks, we were ready to dig in to our food. The serving team was phenomenal, very communicative – pacing the delivery of food expertly…and here is how it began:
“Black And White”
The menu begins with a nod to New York City, home to the classic “black and white” cookie – but here, they deliver it in a small box as your first amuse bouche:
That’s because these are savory cookies with apple and cheddar! Next up is a stack of containers:
“A Tower Of Tastes”
Here is what you have delivered in a towering box, then deconstructed: A fava bean croquette…
Whitefish salad is also served, with a collection of vegetables to dip…and you are also given a morel foam bite with rye crisp:
Finally, you receive a wellfleet oyster with caviar! Next up is one of their most creative dishes:
“Caviar Benedict”
This is the restaurant’s version of “eggs bendict with caviar”, served in a similar container to the menu – a rich egg custard topped with shaved egg yolk and caviar – and the cutest and smallest english muffins you’ve ever seen!
Up next was a chance for each of us to try something different – alex opted for a clean dish:
“Fluke”
This delicate fish is marinated with peas and grapefruit – light but incredibly flavorful…my option was also incredibly flavorful…just not as light!
“A Taste of Foie Gras with Spinach Leaf”
Hey, I’m always a sucker for foie! This was warm poached foie, absolutely silky smooth and delicious…
As you can see from the circular menu, next up was a fun take on a pot pie:
“Lobster Pie”
The Lobster was served butter-poached with morels and peas…and then, one of the most amazing preparations of the night showed up:
“Pig’s Bladder Asparagus!”
Um….WHAT!?!?!?!? Well, what you see here is a giant inflated pig’s bladder!
Yes, this is an asparagus dish! You see, it has been braised with potato and black truffle inside of a pig’s bladder!
Here’s a look:
After dressing it down with the broth, they cut it open and leave you with a beautiful plate of asparagus and truffle!
As you will see, when the restaurant served meat they served it in very creative ways:
“Spring Lamb”
Next up is lamb served multiple ways with romaine, garlic and broth…we each had our own plate and then mixed and matched for more flavor!
You are served new potatoes with flower, and morel mushrooms with custard and spring garlic on the side!
Now, it was time to head into dessert!
“Triple Cream”
Yes, this cheese course is a Gougere – served with rhubarb, sorrel and green garlic – and then, a special presentation for Alex’s birthday!
“Malt”
This ice cream is served with pretzel and chocolate, followed by chocolate that is a test – you get four bars of chocolate like this:
“Name That Milk!”
That’s right, you are given a slip of paper to try and match the chocolate with the animal that provided the milk!
We didn’t get them right, but it was fun to try! Finally, a box of chocolates ended the meal, with a nice apple liquor and bag of goodies to go!
A Circular Menu Unfolds!
Here is the entire menu – a keepsake for us to take home and discuss forever!
And what a meal: unique presentations, incredible flavors, expert staff and a fun environment – it wasn’t like dining in a “food museum”, it was playful and festive…so, can a vegan menu offer the same experience?
“The Infatuation” reviewer didn’t think so…and we just have no interest in an all-vegan menu so we probably won’t be going back – although we applaud Hamm’s vision – every Chef has to be true to themselves!
The meal at Eleven Madison Park reminded me of another Three-Michelin starred restaurant in Chicago, which serves bacon this way:
Yes, it was hanging on a thin wire!
I still feel that Alinea is the most creative culinary experience I’ve ever had! Here’s just one example – they bring you a helium filled, edible balloon to start your dessert course! My wife Alex dug in a bit reluctantly for the camera:
See more of this magical meal here:
We also had a magical meal at the three Michelin-starred restaurant in San Francisco:
Dominique Crenn is America’s first three Michelin-starred female Chef and she is brilliant!
See our meal here:
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I want to finish by saying again that we loved our dining experience at Eleven Madison Park, and it was hard to read a review that pointed out some issues with the price of the vegan meal the reviewer had – if you want to see culinary artistry, EMP is the place to go, just understand what the experience will be.
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Categories: Bite Eat Swallow, Bite! Eat! Repeat!, Books / Media, Fine Dining, Food, Food Writing, Recipes, Restaurants, Wacky Food, World's Wildest Food
Bite! Eat! Repeat! 
I remember when EMP announced they were going vegan. Such an interesting decision. Your meal looked outstanding! You and your wife really get around! 20 years ago when I took my then 18 year old to Chicago for her birthday, I debated on going to Charlie Trotter or Alinea. I wish we’d had time for both!
I was torn about sharing this, but the review made a clear point: charging almost $400 for carrots and peas is going to be difficult for many to understand, no matter how much brilliance is on display…and sadly, the reviewer left hungry as well…Alinea is still the single most creative and satisfying meal we’ve ever had and we’ve been there multiple times!
Good to know, and unfortunate. I hope to get to Alinea one day. In these “latter” years we’ve been traveling more internationally, although we’ve had some incredible trips to Yellowstone, glacier, and Maine-Vermont. Still much to see in the US!
So much to see indeed! We plan our getaways based on our TV schedules, which is fun because we can really create a memorable getaway! Always great to hear from you!
Wow!
the presentations are beautiful and very different, and all would be lovely to taste, with the exception of the pig bladder asparagus that would put me off
John, I wouldn’t even pay $20 for a plate of peas and some seeds, they are taking foodie pretentiousness to the next level! This is definitely ‘The Emperor’s New Clothes’ of dining out, some people just have too much money to waste. However, the pre-vegan meal you ate there looks delicious.
Best wishes, Pete.
Pete, I shared the story for exactly that reason – Alex and I once ate at a famous vegan restaurant in Napa Valley, and they served meatballs…no meat of course but if you are celebrating vegan why are you pretending to serve meat? And I agree, $350 menus with peas and carrots is going to be a tough sell for most people
I have enjoyed some great vegan dishes …I do love a nicely presented tasting menu and I’m sure that most of those little morsels would be a taste explosion but as many before have said not at that price…
Thank you for your thoughts on this!
Hi John, how very interesting. Perhaps this restaurant will continue to be successful. Some people want to be on the cutting edge of vogue and don’t mind paying for it. I’m not a fan of vegan food. I think controlling human reproduction is a better idea.
Robbie, very smart thinking – there will always be people eager to try unique dining experiences, but I am a bit over that now and we are back to the classics!
👍🏻🩵